streets were narrow and unpaved, but very fairly clean. The vine grew outside
many of the houses; and there were some with signboards, on which was painted a
bottle and a glass, that made me feel much at home. Even on this ledge of human
society there was a stunted growth of shoplets, which had taken root and
vegetated somehow, though as in an air mercantile of the bleakest. It was here
as hitherto: all things were generically the same as in Europe, the differences
being of species only; and I was amused at seeing in a window some bottles with
barley-sugar and sweetmeats for children, as at home; but the barley-sugar was
in plates, not in twisted sticks, and was coloured blue. Glass was plentiful in
the better houses.
    Lastly, I should say that the people were of a physical beauty which was
simply amazing. I never saw anything in the least comparable to them. The women
were vigorous, and had a most majestic gait, their heads being set upon their
shoulders with a grace beyond all power of expression. Each feature was
finished, eyelids, eyelashes, and ears being almost invariably perfect. Their
colour was equal to that of the finest Italian paintings; being of the clearest
olive, and yet ruddy with a glow of perfect health. Their expression was divine;
and as they glanced at me timidly but with parted lips in great bewilderment, I
forgot all thoughts of their conversion in feelings that were far more earthly.
I was dazzled as I saw one after the other, of whom I could only feel that each
was the loveliest I had ever seen. Even in middle age they were still comely,
and the old grey-haired women at their cottage doors had a dignity, not to say
majesty, of their own.
    The men were as handsome as the women beautiful. I have always delighted in
and reverenced beauty; but I felt simply abashed in the presence of such a
splendid type - a compound of all that is best in Egyptian, Greek and Italian.
The children were infinite in number, and exceedingly merry; I need hardly say
that they came in for their full share of the prevailing beauty. I expressed by
signs my admiration and pleasure to my guides, and they were greatly pleased. I
should add that all seemed to take a pride in their personal appearance, and
that even the poorest (and none seemed rich) were well-kempt and tidy. I could
fill many pages with a description of their dress and the ornaments which they
wore, and a hundred details which struck me with