 great ornament to this place; it
answers however its destination, and serves very well for the reception of the
magistrates, who assemble in it from time to time; so that 'tis presumable,
justice is regularly distributed.
    I had heard much of it, but there is nothing at all curious in the Courgain;
'tis a distinct quarter of the town inhabited solely by sailors and fishermen;
it consists of a number of small streets, neatly built and mostly of brick; 'tis
extremely populous, but as that may be accounted for, from the principles of
their diet, - there is nothing curious in that neither. -- A traveller may see
it to satisfy himself - he must not omit however taking notice of La Tour de
Guet, upon any account; 'tis so called from its particular destination, because
in war it serves to discover and give notice of the enemies which approach the
place, either by sea or land; -- but 'tis monstrous high, and catches the eye so
continually, you cannot avoid taking notice of it, if you would.
    It was a singular disappointment to me, that I could not have permission to
take an exact survey of the fortifications, which are the strongest in the
world, and which, from first to last, that is, from the time they were set about
by Philip of France Count of Bologne, to the present war, wherein many
reparations were made, have cost (as I learned afterwards from an engineer in
Gascony) - above a hundred millions of livres. It is very remarkable that at the
Tête de Gravelenes, and where the town is naturally the weakest, they have
expended the most money; so that the outworks stretch a great way into the
campaign, and consequently occupy a large tract of ground. - However, after all
that is said and done, it must be acknowledged that Calais was never upon any
account so considerable from itself, as from its situation, and that easy
enterance which it gave our ancestors upon all occasions into France: it was not
without its inconveniences also; being no less troublesome to the English in
those times, than Dunkirk has been to us, in ours; so that it was deservedly
looked upon as the key to both kingdoms, which no doubt is the reason that there
have arisen so many contentions who should keep it: of these, the siege of
Calais, or rather the blockade (for it was shut up both by land and sea) was the
most memorable, as it withstood the efforts of Edward the third a whole year,
and was not terminated
